Many of the corals and other sessile invertebrates we keep in reef aquariums are considered “photosynthetic,” meaning much of their nutrition is produced by photosynthetic algae (zooxanthellae) residing in their tissues. Thus, there is a direct link between the type and intensity of a reef aquarium’s lighting and the health—or even survival—of the corals and other invertebrates it contains.
但是，非常重要的是要了解，如果突然暴露于更高强度的照明，可以严重强调适应一定水平的照明水平的珊瑚。这通常发生时发生：
- A specimen kept under subpar (no pun intended) lighting during shipping or in a dealer’s tank is newly introduced to a brightly lit aquarium.
- The reef system’s lighting has just been upgraded, for example from fluorescents to metal halides or LEDs.
- The hobbyist waits too long to replace aging bulbs or tubes.
- Dissolved organic compounds that cause yellowing of the water are suddenly removed (e.g., via chemical filtration with activated carbon).
So how can you avoid photoshocking your invertebrates? Here are six ways:
1) Research your inverts’ lighting requirements
Photosynthetic invertebrates vary widely with respect to their lighting needs. Some, including many corallimorpharians (so-called mushroom polyps), prefer relatively low lighting levels. Others, such as the variousAcropora物种，需要相当强烈的照明。还有其他人介于两者之间或可以适应不同的照明强度，如果逐渐适应。关键是要研究您计划保留的任何物种的护理要求，以确保您可以提供适当的照明水平，并指导其相对于灯的放置位置。
2）从底部开始
When introducing a newly acquired coral to your system—even if it’s a species that requires intense lighting—it’s generally best to place the specimen on the bottom of the tank initially. Then, very gradually and incrementally move it upward, allowing it to acclimate to the light at each level for about a week, until you reach the desired point on the rockwork (unless, of course, the desired point是坦克的底部）。
3）抬高灯
艾尔ternatively, you can raise the light fixture higher than usual above the tank and incrementally lower it down to the normal level. Obviously, some lighting configurations (e.g. pendant-style fixtures) lend themselves to this approach better than others (e.g. hoods that sit on top of the tank).
4）在阴影上层
This photo-acclimation method, which I learned from Anthony Calfo’s writings (though I don’t know whether or not he was actually the first to suggest it), involves placing several layers of window screening material between the light source and the top of the tank and then gradually removing one layer at a time. The screening material should be sized and positioned such that it shades only the new specimen—not the entire tank (an important consideration for established systems).
5）按时允许灯泡/管更换
Over time, the intensity and spectral characteristics of the bulbs and/or tubes in reef-lighting fixtures drift away from the desired ranges. If you wait too long to replace them, your invertebrates will become acclimated to the lower light level and then experience photoshock when you finally swap the lamps out. For best results, keep a record of when you purchase new lamps and be sure to follow the replacement schedule recommended by the manufacturer.
6)小心碳
在某些情况下，珊瑚发生了照相盘，不是因为灯的强度发生了变化，而是因为光线穿过水柱的渗透突然有所改善。例如，当在已建立的系统中使用活性炭以去除水中的黄色化合物时，可能会发生这种情况。为了防止这种情况，在使用活性碳擦洗水后，使用上述浅色或阴影技术可能会有所帮助。但是，如果您要以足够的频率进行水分换水，并使用适当的蛋白质脱脂器等，那么水中的泛黄化合物的大量积聚并不是一个问题。
Note that light penetration can also improve suddenly after a long-overdue cleaning of aquarium cover glasses and/or light fixture lenses. But again, this can be avoided easily enough with the regular application of “elbow grease” to prevent salt and/or calcium deposits from building up on these surfaces.
